The same factors are required to overwinter a nuc as for managing a large colony. The queen must lay many eggs in fall to ensure that there are plenty of bees for winter. The queen of a newly mated summer queen will produce more eggs than an older queen, even if she is a spring queen. However, to encourage the queen to lay, her colony must have lots of nectar and pollen (feed sugar syrup and pollen substitute if there is no honey flow) 😁 Most importantly, monitor and, if necessary, treat for Varroa mites 😁 Use wind protection, mouse guards, and high ventilation. You can also wrap your nuc in roofing paper or another insulation for extra survival. It is possible to wrap 2 nucs together and insulate them both. This configuration allows them to cluster against their common wall. 
It seems like the season is over. It’s almost over with the lime, bramble, and rosebay willowherb, or fireweed, for Americans. Honey has been extracted, but in my case, not yet harvested, and the queens have begun to decrease their laying rates. There’s almost nothing to do in the apiary. It is unlikely that colonies will swarm so frequently, and inspections may be reduced. Drones are getting chucked out of the hives and queen rearing becomes a bit had hit and miss, with poorer weather, cooler temperatures and the real probability that they have won’t get mated properly. 
This is my first attempt at overwintering in a nuc. I need some advice on feeding during the winter. I had gotten a lovely, even-tempered colony from a Maisies polynuc. Two combs with brood, two each. Nice solid slabs that are mostly capped. The year’s queen. Have just completed apiguard, and I’m having added four pints of Thymolated Syrup. The yellow pollen that bees produce (ivy) is brought in by the honeybees. The bees are very content with what they have. They will be cosy in a celotex blanket. Is this something that should be included in the OMF?How much food should I be giving now, and what about in winter? I’m happy with my large, heavy wooden nationals. But I don’t know what it feels like to be well-fed polynuc. 
Beeculture.com Also, mention how to place the frames of bees in the split. Do not remove them. You should inform the split about the existence of a laying Queen after approximately four to five week. If you go into the split and they are “noisy” before four to five weeks, you may want to consider placing an additional frame of eggs/larvae in the split. A queen cell is removed if the queen has been pulled out. Splits should be given 1:1 syrup during nectar flows for insurance. This was highlighted by Jazma Steiner. 
Bshoneybees.co.uk It is also stated that after your order has been submitted, you will be sent a confirmation email and a payment receipt. Your order will be secured only after your deposit has been received. The first contact we will make with you is via email. Please ensure that your email address is valid so that we can book you into our dispatch system. Your Nuc will not be sent if we don’t receive an email response. Unfortunately, we are not able to follow up with customers on a consistent basis. Once we have received your request, we will reach out to you. We aim to deliver your Nuc within the allocated week. However due to weather conditions and time limitations in spring, we cannot offer delivery of your order on Wednesdays (for arrival Thursdays unless otherwise agreed). Due to logistics required to bulk mail Nucs in large quantities, we have designated Wednesdays for postage. Your dispatch can be delayed for up to 2 weeks. All Overwintered Nucs can be dispatched in a matter of days. Around a similar time so will need They will be shipped within 14 days from the time they are notified. Because they require extra management, we cannot delay dispatches beyond this time. Any additional delays will be charged a hive management fee of £20 + VAT per week. Credit goes to Marino Adamson, Mataram (Indonesia) for the most recent revision.